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Mera Peak Climbing Expedition

 

Overview

The highest trekking peak in Nepal with views of four of the world's five highest mountains.
This spectacular route takes us away from the busy trails leading to Everest Base Camp, and over a rarely-trailed pass into the sparsely-inhabited Hinku Valley. From here we will walk through a beautiful high alpine environment, where Mera Peak, by far the highest trekking peak in Nepal at 6476m, towers over the valley. Slowly making our way around to the north we find a softer side to the mountain, and from here it is a non-technical climb which anyone with ice-axe and crampon experience can attempt. If you've acclimatised well, have strong lungs and plenty of willpower, you can reach the summit of this beautiful Himalayan peak. A tough but rewarding expedition.

 

Day 1
You will arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel. You can spend the evening as you like.

 


Day 2
Today is a free day for sightseeing in Kathmandu. You may wish to visit the monkey temple at Swayambunath; one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world at Bodnath; the most important Hindu temple in the valley at Pashupatinath. You can also visit Durbar Square in the heart of the old city, where the old Royal Palace, with its intricate woodcarving, is located. Outside is Kumari Chowk, home of the Kumari, the young girl who is revered as a living goddess. The area is a maze of temples and images, and, leading away from the square in all directions, are narrow alleys, full of the most amazing variety of shops and stalls. Sightseeing tours can be booked locally. Today there will also be a full trip briefing in the morning.

 


Day 3
You will take the spectacular flight to the small airstrip at Lukla (2800m), the gateway to the Khumbu region, and the starting point for the popular trail towards Everest. It is a busy little village, with many lodges, equipment and supply shops. Our staff will organise the huge entourage of porters and loads for the days to come, as Lukla is the only proper village we will visit on this itinerary. You will begin by walking south, on an enticing path to Puyan (2800m).

 


Day 4 - 7
This morning you will leave the treeline behind, and get into wilder country, where the Sherpas only herd their animals in the summer months. Crossing a small pass, you will get a stunning view of Kanchenjunga and its pointed neighbor, Jannu, far away to the east, in India. You will continue climbing to the holy Panch Pokhari Lakes, and then descend to camp at Changbu Kharka (4200m).

 


Day 8 - 9
You will then follow the rocky riverbed upstream (which is a reminder of the destruction caused by the bursting of a glacial lake) to join the main Mera trail. Walking through meadows dotted with dwarf junipers will bring you to the village of Tangnag, where you will camp (4300m). You will now be in a deep valley, created by the towering walls of Kusum Kanguru, and the western peak of Mera. The views are spectacular.

 


Day 10
You will spend today acclimatising to the altitude. There will be a walk in the morning to the top of a ridge south of Tangnak, in which you will trek up to around 5000m, and should get great views of Kusum Kanguru, Chamlang and the Mera La. You will return to camp for lunch, and in the afternoon there will be a gear check and abseil training. Your leader will also do a PAC bag demonstration.

 


Day 11 - 12
There will be an acclimatisation day at Khare, where there will also be the chance to walk up onto the glacier towards the Mera La. Here, you will be able to practice using your ice axe, crampon, and rope technique, as well as the use of jumar. Please note that equipment checks and all practice sessions with the equipment, both in Tangnag and at Base Camp, are compulsory for everyone before the climb.

 


Day 13
You will now take supplies up to the Mera La (5400m), and set up camp just below the pass on the Honku side. The sunset from this campsite is truly spectacular, with the peaks of the Honku Himal glowing red in the setting sun.

 


Day 14
You will ascend the Mera glacier up to a rocky outcrop, in order to establish High Camp at 5800m. Even those who are not climbing may well come up to the Mera La, to see how things are progressing. From this point it is possible to see five of the six highest mountains on earth, stretching from Kanchenjunga in the east, through Makalu, Lhotse and Everest to Cho Oyu in the west. This afternoon there will be a final gear check, and,soon after sunset (don't miss the sunset on Makalu from camp!) you will retire to the warmth of your sleeping bag for the summit attempt tomorrow. Please note that camping space is extremely limited at high camp, and occasionally there will have to be three people sharing a tent. There will be no dining tent, and meals will be served in your tent.

 


Day 15
Today will be a very long day as you will have a very early (and very cold) start, usually at around 2am. You will set off roped up in teams. You will need to take your ice axe and wear crampons as we ascend the wide, open glacier, avoiding the crevasses. The terrain here is not very steep, but the going is very slow due to the altitude. As dawn approaches, the trail starts to ascend steeply to the east of the left-hand ridge, before swinging right on easier ground to approach the summit. As we approach the summit we will rest at a col whilst the porters fix a rope up the last 50m to the summit. This is the steepest part of the climb, and it is likely that we may need the jumar for parts of this section. There is also a very steep, slightly overhanging, section of approximately 6m, which makes the climb a little more challenging. The porters will fix the rope accordingly, and help you up this section. Please note that, as this is mountain terrain, crevasses here change from year to year.
Once at the top, the views of the sun rising over Kanchenjunga in the east, past Makalu to the plumed Everest Himal in the centre and Cho Oyu further west, make every painful step worthwhile. In order to descend over the steep section, there will be an abseil from the summit, and you will use the fixed rope back to the col. From here, the descent is usually a lot quicker, although you will still be roped as care must be taken due to the crevasses. After a long but rewarding day, you will return to the lower altitude of Base Camp (5000m), meaning that you should sleep soundly.

 


Day 16 - 19
You will complete this circular trek by returning to Lukla over the Zatrwa La (4600m). You stay below the pass at Chatrabuk (4270m), before crossing the second part of the Zatrwa La the following morning (4500m). From this trail there will be magnificent views of Mera's vertical west face. After the passes, the trail descends all the way down to Lukla for the party!

 


Day 20
You will fly to Kathmandu in the morning, transfer to your hotel and head straight for a hot shower or a beer, depending on your priorities!

 

 

Day 21 Today will be a free day in Kathmandu for sightseeing or shopping.

 

 

 Day 22
 After breakfast depart transfer.

Profile
17 days walking with full porterage. Altitude maximum 6476m, average 3660m.

 


Accommodation
4 nights hotel, 17 nights camping.

 


Food
All included except main meals in Kathmandu.

 


What to Expect
This is a Grade E trek, with 17 days point-to-point walking, a maximum altitude of 6476m, and an average of 3660m. Please expect this to be a strenuous and tough trip: we recommend that you have done plenty of walking at altitude, and take regular exercise. The trek takes place away from the main trails and in areas where there are very few villages. The valleys are steep-sided and many of the trails can be rocky. There are also some extremely steep ascents and descents and some narrow trails. Mera Peak has been designated a 'trekking peak' by the Nepalese Government. For many years the climb was rated as Alpine Grade F (Facile/Easy) but due to recent summit block changes the final 30-40 metres has become Alpine Grade PD (Peu Difficle/Slightly Difficult). You will be roped up from the high camp because of crevasses, and climbing Sherpas will fix a rope for the last 50 meters section. You will need to use a jumar for the last section as there is now an overhang and you will also need to abseil back down a short distance from the summit. There will be mandatory equipment checks, practice of rope techniques and of using an ice axe, crampons, harness, jumar and abseil devices. If you refuse to participate in all these, the leader has the right to prevent you from attempting the climb. We recommend that you have previous experience of using all these, and of walking in plastic boots.
Please be aware that altitude sickness can have a significant and harmful effect on your physical state. It is important that you respect and take heed of the leader's advice and decisions. The leaders are trained in first aid and are well aware of AMS symptoms and will be keeping a close eye on the group. This is a fully supported camping trek. We provide tents, dining and toilet tents, camp stools, tables, cooking and kitchen gear and staff including a leader and climbing sherpas. While on trek we will wake you up with a cup of hot tea, and will also provide a small bowl of warm washing water. We can also provide a small bowl of warm washing water in the evenings too, on request. (Please note that above Base Camp washing facilities will be very limited).

 


Group size and age
Min. 6, max. 14, plus leader, Sherpa climbing guides and appropriate local staff. Minimum age 18. TOUGH : An E grade tour combines all the elements of our D Grade, tough itineraries, but adds extra difficulties such as tricky river crossings, very high or difficult passes, glaciers or peaks that require basic climbing skills. Often specialist equipment, like ice axes and crampons will be needed and you must have experience of them.


Walking & Trekking:Trips are wholly trekking-focused or simply include a significant number of walking days during the itinerary.

Do I need to take walking poles?
If you are used to walking with trekking poles then take them with you, as you will probably find them useful especially on the way down. They are not essential though and the walk is manageable without them. It is mostly a personal preference but do remember to pack them as part of your main luggage to be stowed in the hold. If you decide later you'd like to have some, they are available to buy in Kathmandu.

 


Any good tips for eating out in Kathmandu?
Head down to the Everest Steak House in southern Thamel for a mouth watering steak and chips, well earned if you’re just back from trek. Finish it off with a cocktail in the legendary Tom & Jerry bar up the road!
You can also head to Fire and Ice Pizzeria in Thamel, a great place with casual indoor and outdoor eating which is popular amongst travellers, and locals alike. This restaurant is a great place to meet for a morning cup of Italian espresso, or a hearty meal of delicious pizzas, pastas, ice cream and even a Grappa!

 


Is there anywhere to store luggage while on trek?
You will be packing your kitbag for the trek before you leave Kathmandu, and can leave your main luggage at the hotel  in Kathmandu, where it will be stored securely free of charge. However, as with any destination, we recommend you keep valuables with you at all times.

 

 

Any special food I should try in Kathmandu?
Momos
This Nepalese version of dumplings/ wantons is a traditional delicacy and a must try local dish while you are in Nepal. Momo dumplings are either steamed or  fried with chicken/or buff (water buffalo) as well as stuffed with vegetables for vegetarians and have become the most famous fast food amongst Nepalese and can be found on the menus of most restaurants serving locals and tourists alike. 
  Kwanti soup
This mixed bean soup is usually served during festivals and gatherings and now has made its way in many of restaurant menus. Goes well with Naan or roti bread.
 Choela
This is a typical Newari dish smoked meat (chicken; lamb or buffalo meat) tossed with spices and mustard oil. Easily available in most Nepalese and local restaurants in Kathmandu around Hotel.

 


I have some free time in Kathmandu?
If you are looking to do something off the beaten track just for half a day around Kathmandu, head out to Bungmati and Khokana. Just an hour drive on the outskirts of Kathmandu and you will find yourself in this sleepy little twin village where not much has changed in terms of construction, profession of people (most are still farmers, woodcarvers and weavers) or the pace of life. The twin villages are 15 minutes apart and you walk through the dirt trails, with farms and fields on either side. Should you have extra time and still want to do something, the Tibetan Refugee Settlement where you can see carpet weaving to a Tibetan Buddhist Monastery falls half way on the way back from here to the Hotel.

 

 

On a lodge or teahouse trek, how much spending money should I allow ?
US $ 40 – US $ 50 per day is ample, but it is possible to spend less (and more!). Meals are usually pretty cheap but extras such as sweets or snacks will add a bit more to your budget. There are plenty of ATMs in Kathmandu, so you can withdraw more Nepalese currency if you are running short towards the end of your trip.

 


Can I buy any equipment in Kathmandu before the start of the trip?
Yes. There are dozens of trekking shops in the Thamel area of Kathmandu. Depending on how good your bartering skills are, you can usually pick up items for about one third of the price that you'll pay in the Europe / America and its more fun to bargain! However, please note we cannot guarantee the quaility of anything you may purchase so buyer beware.

 


Should I get my Nepalese visa in advance or at the airport?
Most of our clients choose to get their visas at Kathmadu airport. This may mean some time queuing, but the transfer bus won't leave for the hotel until all arriving passengers are through Immigration and have collected their bags. So if you have your visa in advance, you will avoid the visa queue but you won’t get to the hotel any earlier. If you'd like to get your visa in advance, please contact the Nepalese embassy direct.
Please note if you are staying in Nepal longer than 15 days, you will need to ask for a 30 day visa.

A BRIEF PROFILE of your needs and expectations should ensure a personalised, detailed, yet concise email reply from us. Information such as the following is helpful:
  • Primary purpose(s) and highlights of visit, including regions of interest.
  • Duration of stay
  • Probable number of people and short profile and level of physical challenge sought
  • Any specific queries or concerns

Download the detailed trip notes to know about this trip,including detailed itinerary supplementary information of the relevant trip of Exodus Treks & Expeditions.

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Exodus Treks & Expeditions Nepal Pvt.Ltd.
Tel. No. 977-01-4442715, 977-01-4442716
Fax: No: 977-01-4442521
P.O.Box. No: 20058
Address: Dhumbarahi, Kathmandu, Nepal
E-mail Address: info@exodustrekking.com
etreks@mos.com.np
Website: www.exodustrekking.com

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